RIDING VIETNAM’S HÀ GIANG LOOP WITH MAMA’S HOMESTAY
During my travels I have done amazing things that I could’ve only imagined in my wildest dreams. Things that I look back on and still can’t fully believe were real. If I were to die tomorrow, I would be completely fulfilled with the 20 years I’ve lived. With that said, riding a motorbike for 4 days in the mountains of rural Vietnam around the Hà Giang Loop is the greatest, most legendary thing that I have done so far.
Spanning over 380km, the Hà Giang Loop in the Northern most area of the country is the best thing that you can do on your visit to Vietnam-and it is also one of the most popular things to do for that reason.
While researching and planning your trip around the loop, it can be a bit confusing or overwhelming figuring out a plan: Whether you should do it alone or with a group, what direction to go, what group to go with, duration, stays, all of it. To make the experience easy for yourself - I highly recommend doing the loop through Mama’s Homestay. As I make my way down through the south of Vietnam, I have been convincing every one that I meet to do the loop with Mama’s and I am so confident that I am steering them in the right direction.
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MAMA'S HOMESTAY OVERVIEW
Going into the loop somewhat clueless, I had no idea what to expect. Coming out of the loop, the one thing that I am certain about is that doing the trip with Mama’s Homestay in Hà Giang City was the right choice.
What is included on the loop with Mama’s Homestay:
-Transportation to the homestay in Hà Giang
-All meals x3/day with coffee and tea
-All accommodation
-Petrol costs
-Insurance
-Entrance/excursion fees
-Permit fees
-Motorbike/driver fees
-A super cute shirt or tote bag
-Happy water…
Down to every detail, Mama’s Homestay has the trip completely figured out. From each of the homestays at night, to every stop and the killer meals x3/day.
The homestay offers flexible options, you can ride by yourself, with a friend, or with an easy driver-and every driver was fabulous.
You can also choose between doing the 2 day loop, 3 day loop, or the 4 day loop, both with everything included.
I did the 4 days, and 3 nights option, which I will be writing about here. I really, really recommend this duration if you have the time. In the future I would absolutely do the 6 days and 5 nights Hà Giang-Cao Bằng loop.
In comparison to the other tour options around the loop, Mama’s Homestay is one of the cheapest, while not being an extremely large group. The two other most popular groups to do the Hà Giang loop with-Jasmine Hostel and Bong Hostel-are much bigger groups, and a bit more pricey for the same route and tour.
Mama’s Homestay also does such an amazing job of incorporating the local life, creating these incredible, authentic experiences both in the tiny village towns, and out in the middle of the mountain roads.
One day we were out on the loop, up on a mountain top drinking coffee overlooking a valley, and my driver, Vu, pointed down to the village below while motioning to me that it was his home! It was so cool to see and learn about where he is from.
You will constantly be surrounded by different tribes of people and ways of life, walking around and being surrounded by the locals outside of their homes cooking meals and doing laundry, with children running around at your feet looking up at you all wide-eyed, it did not feel real.
Even though we did not speak the same language as the locals, smiles and gestures go even further and these moments are the greatest souvenirs that you can get on your travels.
TRANSPORTATION TO MAMA'S HOMESTAY IN HA GIANG CITY
Like most people heading to do the loop, you will most likely be heading up north from Hanoi, and Mama’s makes it unbelievably easy to get from place to place.
When you book your tour with Mama’s, you will have all of the options of different cabins/bunks, departure times, and locations to choose from for your sleeper buses to and from easily through them, so you do not have to go about it seperately.
Again, the price of the bus ticket is included in the full price when reserving.
DAY 1: HÀ GIANG-TAM SƠN-YÊN MINH
On the first morning, you will wake up at the homestay and start your day with an egg bành mí and coffee before storing your large luggage away and meeting your driver, or getting your bike.
The drive starts at 10:30am through Hà Giang City, and then up into the mountains.
The first day of the loop is fun because you will experience everything for the first time.
There are a few stops along these beautiful lookout spots, and you will stop in a small town to visit a traditional linen making shop where you can see these amazing women hand make linen pieces.
After, you will stop for the first family lunch of the trip.
Each day ended around 4:30pm as you make your way up to your local homestay, the first night’s being in Yên Minh. Though it was only the first night, there was no shortage of karaoke and happy water.
DAY 2: YÊN MINH-LÙNG TÁM-DỒNG VĂN
The second day will start a bit earlier, with another fabulous bành mí breakfast at 8am. You will hit the road around 9am, and head towards the border belt along southern China. As the days go on, the surroundings only get more unreal, even up in the fog of the clouds.
Making your way to the border, you will cross into the Đồng Văn UNESCO Global Geopark-the UNESCO Geopark with the highest human diversity in the world-17 ethnic groups live inside Đồng Văn’s borders!
Here is where you will reach an amazing viewpoint overlooking China, and the small Chinese villages just over the border. We could see them lighting off fireworks, and could even hear music playing from one of the little villages.
The Vietnam-China Border, Đồng Văn
Following another fabulous lunch, you’ll head up to the Lũng Cú Flagpole-the northernmost point of Vietnam!
The rest of day 2 will take you to more beautiful viewpoints along the route, until you arrive to the next homestay. After a great family dinner, there is again no shortage of karaoke and happy water.
DAY 3: ĐỒNG VĂN-MÃ PÍ LÈNG-MÈO VẠC-MẬU DUỆ
With absolutely no doubt at all, day 3 is the most beautiful day of the loop. This day was probably the most beautiful day of my life, if not the top 3 most beautiful days of my life. Starting with you guessed it-another great bành mí breakfast, the day will get going around 9am again.
After the first stop at a beautiful viewpoint overlooking the Nho Quế River, you will ride down to the water and hop on this incredible boat tour down the turquoise river in-between the towering mountains above. There are no pictures that will do these views justice, you will just have to see it for yourself.
Before lunch you will stop at the most beautiful little roadside café that you will probably ever see, overlooking the insane landscape (the valley where my driver lives!)
The rest of day 3 will take you through these absolutely incredible, indescribable rural villages out in the middle of nowhere. Children walk home from school on the dirt roads, casually underneath the most otherworldly mountains, as the roads opens up to the most unreal view I have ever seen. I did cry.
Finishing up the 3rd day around 4:30, the last homestay was my favorite. The bungalows were modern and beautiful underneath the mountains and bright night sky. As it is the last night with your new friends, the fun goes into the early morning.
DAY 4: DU GIÀ-LÙNG TÁM-HÀ GIANG CITY
Around 8am the next day, you’ll have your last bành mí breakfast and start heading back to Hà Giang City.
The first stop of the day is fairly quickly into the ride at Du Già Waterfall. As I did the loop at the end of January it was definitely freezing, but that did not stop the swimming.
The rest of the day was filled with beautiful lookout spots, tiny coffee stops, and another waterfall before stopping for lunch in Lùng Tám. Along with the last lunch being amazing per usual, walking around the village surrounded by the kindest locals is one of my favorite memories of the whole roadtrip.
Arriving back in Hà Giang City around 5pm, you will say goodbye to your driver and bike, shower, have some dinner, grab your big bags and head off to your destination on the night bus.
Mama’s Homestay is super helpful with booking transportation all over, let them know where you want to go, they’ll give you a ticket, and you are on your way.
THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO RIDE THE HÀ GIANG LOOP
There is no ‘most popular time’ to do the Hà Gang Loop, but most people's preferred season to visit the north is spring into summer when it is warm and everything is green, but not too hot.
I did the loop with Mama’s during mid January, and it was definitely colder, foggy and misty, but that made it so much unbelievably more cooler.
The atmosphere and the way the fog and clouds looked around the mountains surrounding us is something that I will never forget. I really got so lucky with the weather making the experience that much better, and when I go back to way northern Vietnam I want it to visit at the same time of year again.
HOW MUCH CASH TO BRING ON THE HÀ GIANG LOOP
When paying before the trip at the homestay, you can pay by either cash or card, and I would recommend saving your cash.
I would bring around 2 million dong (~$75) which is absolutely more than enough, but you'll need cash for drinks, coffees on the road, snacks at roadside stops, and any cool souvenirs you may find.
In pretty much all of the small towns that you’ll stay in, there will not be any atms, but there are definitely some In Ha Giang City where the homestay is, and we found one an atm out in Đồng Văn.
Don't forget that cash for a tip for your driver is needed as well!
WHAT TO PACK FOR THE HÀ GIANG LOOP
In your small backpack that you bring with you, you don’t need much at all.
In both the cold and hot temperatures- bringing layers is key to easily take on and off.
A rain jacket is a must especially being up in the clouds, and it is no worries If you don't have one as Mama's Homestay sells them to grab before you get going.
In the warmer months I also for sure say bring a swim suit as you stop at the Du Già waterfall and everyone jumps in. Or even if you’re visiting in the cooler months, everyone still jumps in.
This was the most legendary thing that I have ever done. When I am 85 years old and looking back on these 4 days, I will smile just as hard as I did the whole time on the back of the bike. I am so unbelievably grateful, and I feel too lucky.
You can learn more and book your trip with Mama’s on their website HERE. You can also follow them on Instagram. HUGE thank you to Mama’s Homestay for everything.
THINKING OF TRAVELING TO VIETNAM? DO IT.
HERE ARE ALL OF THE RESOURCES I USE TO PLAN MY TRIPS:
FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATION: BOOKING.COM IS WHAT I WILL ALWAYS USE TO BOOK FLIGHTS AND STAYS. NEVER DONE ME WRONG.
TOURS, DRIVERS, AND ALL THAT FUN STUFF: VIATOR IS MY GO-TO.
TRAVEL INSURANCE: SAFETYWING HAS ALWAYS BEEN FABULOUS. THE BEST EVER.
RENTAL CARS: WHEN BOOKING ANY TRIP THAT YOU DECIDE TO RENT A CAR FOR, BOOKING.COM IS FABULOUS LIKE ALWAYS.
