A WEEK IN LEÓN, NICARAGUA
I love the chaos of Latin American cities. Traveling up north from the calmer city of Granada I was ready for a change of pace back to that chaos and authenticity like Managua-that is one of my favorite things about León, the authenticity.
There is something about being alone somewhere foreign and so different from what I am used to that I love so much. Something about being thrown into such a different way of life is addicting to me. It teaches me more than anything I could learn in a text book. In fact, I learned more about León itself during my visit than I was ever taught about Nicaragua as a whole during my years spent in the American schooling system.
I ate street food, explored cathedrals and experienced the history of the country’s revolution underneath huge murals through out the streets depicting the war and had such an amazing time by myself.
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LEÓN OVERVIEW
The streets are so alive in León, even through out the night. The streets are buzzing with people selling everything from fruits, clothing and cigarettes, to old DVDs and hair dye. The one way streets are filled with cars, motorcycles and trucks filled with people in the trunk or on the top.
What was only supposed to be a couple day visit, turned into over a week as I hopped on a chicken bus and made my way to Las Peñitas, the most special little beach town outside of león on the pacific, and then back to León.
I will treasure my days in both León and Las Peñitas for as long as I can remember them, this writing entry is mostly for myself so that I do not forget any time soon.
GETTING TO LEÓN
If you are heading south to León and crossing into Nicaragua from Honduras, you will most likely be traveling by south bound chicken buses, or shuttles from more the frequently visited spots like Antigua, El Tunco, La Ceiba, etc. (Bigfoot Hostel’s shuttle system is the best option in my opinion).
If you are heading north to León, you will most likely be traveling by north bound chicken buses, shuttles from Managua, Granada, Ometepe, etc., or microbuses- a mix between a chicken bus and a shuttle basically. I found that most people took the microbus route, it was definitely the easiest way to make your way up to León and cost less than $3. No matter where you are starting from you will have to stop over in Managua.
In Managua you will arrive at uca bus ‘terminal’ (pronounced ‘oo-ka’), which every microbus going north or south is stopping at for passengers to catch their connecting microbus. Uca is a small area filled with different stalls almost, filled with the different microbuses underneath big signs that say the city they’re going to.
The vans leave when they fill up which is pretty fast, and as one pulls out almost immediately another one pulls in to get everyone in. It is easy, for example if you are coming from granada in a microbus you will arrive to uca terminal, get off and just find the van that says León.
It is only about an hour and a half drive up to león from managua, and they drop you off right outside of the main part of the city. There will be lots of caponeras (bike taxis) waiting for people to hop on to ride into the city. Take advantage of this.
We flew down the cobblestone streets, weaving through the crowds surrounding the bustling street side vendors, while I held on to my backpack and had a small conversation in my (improving) broken spanish with the caponero (the driver).
The ride will most likely cost you only $1, but I guess this just depends what mood your driver is in. My driver was lovely.
MY FAVORITE SPOTS TO HIT IN LEÓN
THE CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION OF MARY
(REAL E INSIGNE BASÍLICA DE LA ASUNCIÓN DE LA BIENAVENTURADA VIRGEN MARÍA):
Built between the years 1747 and 1814, this cathedral is one of the two UNESCO World Heritage sites in Nicaragua and still holds the title of the largest in Central America and it is insane. One of my favorite memories of this trip was walking on the beautiful roof of the cathedral overlooking the city.
To get access to the roof, you will have to go to the back of the church through a door into the basement to buy the ticket, which is $3.
From there you’ll go back towards the front of the church and enter through the side and walk straight up a couple of flights stairs. A couple of young boys will be at the top that work for the cathedral and they will take your ticket and make sure you take your shoes off so the perfect white, warm rooftop will stay perfectly bright white.
VOLCANO BOARDING DOWN CERRO NEGRO:
Bigfoot is the hostel where the Cerro Negro Volcano boarding was originally founded, and going with them to board down the volcano is definitely the best choice. They run a couple of trips during the day, it will cost $35 for sunset, $33 for the day time, and $30 for sunrise at Bigfoot Hostel.
I chose to go during sunset and it was actually unreal. I found myself really stopping and questioning what my life is when I was on the top of the black ash volcano about to sled down. We ended the evening all hanging out as strangers on top of the old American school bus we rode from León in, and crashing a birthday party in a little tiny village way out in the middle of the rural land outside of the city.
After a day of traveling from Granada to León, I took a nap during my first evening there. I woke up during sunset, walked out and down the street, and stumbled right upon this beautiful church.
Looking up and seeing it in the dimming golden light of the setting sun with the sounds of the music coming from inside was a very beautiful moment and I can picture it so clearly right now.
ACCOMMODATION IN LEÓN
From what I gathered, most travelers were staying at one of three main hostels, The spot, Poco a Poco, and Bigfoot Hostel. Most travelers definitely stayed at Bigfoot. I originally stayed at the spot and when I decided to extend my stay I moved over to Bigfoot, but I would recommend checking out Poco a Poco.
THE SPOT: FROM $15 USD/NIGHT. YOU CAN BOOK THE SPOT HERE.
POCO A POCO: FROM $22 USD/NIGHT. YOU CAN BOOK POCO A POCO HERE.
BIGFOOT HOSTEL: FROM $16 USD/NIGHT. YOU CAN BOOK BIGFOOT HOSTEL HERE.
The Spot definitely has the potential to be great, there was nothing crazy wrong with it but felt very empty. I definitely love a good chill hostel to get a break from having to be very social, but there is a line that you can cross into where it is a little too quiet. It was a beautiful open air hostel like most in Nicaragua, with a pretty view of the bright roofs and the beautiful León sunsets.
I loved León so much. I hope that I will find myself back one day, maybe it will be soon or maybe it will be in 50 years but I will always remember and love the feeling the small city gave me.
THINKING OF TRAVELING TO LEÓN? DO IT.
HERE ARE ALL OF THE RESOURCES I USE TO PLAN MY TRIPS:
FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATION: BOOKING.COM IS WHAT I WILL ALWAYS USE TO BOOK FLIGHTS AND STAYS. NEVER DONE ME WRONG.
TOURS, DRIVERS, AND ALL THAT FUN STUFF: VIATOR IS MY GO-TO.
TRAVEL INSURANCE: SAFETYWING HAS ALWAYS BEEN FABULOUS. THE BEST EVER.
RENTAL CARS: WHEN BOOKING ANY TRIP THAT YOU DECIDE TO RENT A CAR FOR, BOOKING.COM IS FABULOUS LIKE ALWAYS.
